Sweet pickled melon. [Photo/Nantong Daily]

A simple jar of sweet pickled melon has been a staple of dining tables in Nantong for more than 100 years. 

This preserved vegetable is more than a condiment — it offers a taste of the region's culinary heritage, shaped by centuries of craftsmanship and a meticulous, sun-driven process.

The craft can be traced back to the Ming (1368-1644) and Qing (1644-1911) dynasties, when settlers in the coastal areas of Qidong and Haimen developed grain‑bran pickling techniques to preserve vegetables in the humid climate. By the late Qing period, the method had evolved into its modern form, and local sauce shops like Dongmen Jiangdexing and Yudong Xiaoqing began producing it commercially. 

The process starts with hand-selected "ox horn" melons, weighing 1.75–2 kilograms each and free of cracks or bends, which are pierced with fine holes to help release moisture and absorb the savory sauce. For each batch, 130 kg of fermented soybean paste, 225 kg of melons, and 45 kg of salt are layered in earthenware jars, with the melons salted twice beforehand to draw out excess water. During the first 20 days, the jars are turned twice daily; over the following three months, turning is reduced to twice a week. After a full four‑month cycle, the melons turn dark and glossy, yielding about 110 kg of finished product.

The process cannot be hurried, nor can it be replicated by machines. "The quality depends entirely on touch and the patience that comes with time," says a master craftsman who has spent more than four decades in the trade. That patience, combined with generations of know‑how, keeps the tradition of this humble pickle alive, one jar at a time.

What makes Nantong's pickled melon unique is its balanced character: salty, sweet, and richly umami, with a satisfying crunch that lingers after each bite. Traditionally, it is served as a humble side dish. Some modern producers have also introduced subtle variations, such as an osmanthus‑infused version, which tempers the saltiness with a floral hint.