Stir-fried myoga ginger with green soy beans. [Photo/WeChat account: ntwgx6]

For food lovers in Nantong, Jiangsu province, summer isn't complete without myoga ginger — a wild ginger-like vegetable that locals hold dear.

This seasonal ingredient is both a table staple and a recognized herb in traditional medicine. While it belongs to the ginger family, myoga ginger is nothing like its pungent cousin. Peel back its thin outer layer, and you'll find tender, juicy stalks with a crisp, refreshing bite and a clean, aromatic fragrance.

Two varieties from Nantong — Xiayuan myoga ginger and Rudong myoga ginger — have earned recognition as national geographical indication products.

Home cooks have developed several signature preparations. The simplest is cold-dressed myoga ginger: after a quick 30-second blanch and an ice bath, the shredded stalks are topped with chopped cilantro, chili, garlic, and ginger, then finished with a drizzle of hot oil and a blend of sesame oil, soy sauce, vinegar, and spices.

For a heartier dish, stir-fried myoga ginger with green soy beans is a summer favorite. The vegetable's crisp texture pairs perfectly with the tender beans, creating a light, appetizing side that locals say goes well with both wine and rice.

A more recent invention is the myoga ginger spring roll, a crispy wrapper filled with marinated pork strips and salted myoga ginger.

But myoga ginger is not for everyone. Much like the polarizing fish mint beloved in southwestern China, it has a strong, distinctive flavor that inspires fierce devotion or outright rejection.