Taste of autumn: Swimming crabs

Steamed swimming crabs. [Photo/Nantong Daily]

The first autumn catch of swimming crabs has landed in Nantong, drawing early-morning crowds to local markets. Thanks to the efficient cold‑chain logistics, these crabs reach the stalls just three hours after being unloaded, still lively and kicking.

But for locals, the real story isn't the catch — it's what happens in the kitchen. Here's how Nantong cooks its prized swimming crabs.

Steamed — the classic

The crab goes belly‑up into a steamer for 10 to 15 minutes, with nothing more than ginger slices and a splash of vinegar on the side. This minimalist approach lets the natural sweetness and the rich, briny roe speak for themselves.

Stir‑fried with scallions and ginger

The crabs are chopped into pieces, tossed with generous knobs of ginger and a handful of spring onion segments until fragrant, then finished with a light soy‑based glaze. The result is savory, aromatic and truly irresistible when served over a bowl of freshly steamed rice.

Drunken crab (raw marinated)

For the bold, the crabs are cleaned, cut and soaked overnight in a bath of baijiu (white liquor), Sichuan peppercorns, sliced ginger, sugar and salt. The alcohol firms the flesh into a jelly‑like texture while the spices add a complex, numbing warmth.

Beyond the basics

Home cooks and small eateries also prepare crab with steamed egg or toss it with dried chilies for a fiery stir‑fry. Another indulgent twist: coat deep‑fried crab pieces in salted egg yolk, creating a rich, sandy crust that contrasts with the tender meat inside.

As for picking the perfect crab? Market veterans offer two quick tests: squeeze the rear legs — they should feel firm — and turn it over; a lively crab will right itself in seconds.