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The woman who refused to let the silk die

en.nantong.gov.cn

Updated: 2026-09-10

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Su Jinfang weaves the colorful homespun cloth. [Photo/Haimen Daily]

For 64 years, Su Jinfang has sat before the same wooden loom, her hands moving in a rhythm that most of the world has long forgotten.

At 78, Su remains one of the last guardians of Nantong's traditional homespun cloth, a traditional craft that once echoed through every village in this corner of Jiangsu province.

Su received official recognition last year as a national-level practitioner of Nantong's colorful homespun fabric weaving technique. But well before the titles and the official honors, she was a girl of simple roots who watched her mother at the loom and couldn't resist taking a turn.

"When my mother stepped away to tend to other chores, I would sit down at the machine and try weaving," Su said. "I learned by watching, by doing." By 14, she was already producing cloth with classic patterns, checks, reed stripes, and other signature designs, and her mother would tease her that her fabric came out smoother than her own.

In Nantong, weaving was never just a trade. The region's fertile soil and long history of cotton cultivation made it a natural home for the craft; historical records note that the area's cotton cloth production was among the best in China. Through much of the 20th century, the whir of spinning wheels and the clatter of looms were the sounds of rural life here, with households across towns passing the skill down through generations.

Then came the 1990s, and with it, the industrialization of textiles. Machine-made fabric flooded the market. One by one, the old looms in the village were broken up for firewood. Most weavers put down their shuttles for good. Su couldn't bring herself to follow suit. She kept her loom and continued weaving in her spare time, a quiet act of defiance against the tide of progress.

The turning point came in 2006, almost by accident. Su was working a temporary job in town when she learned that a colleague had taken on a commission from the Nantong Museum to produce traditional homespun cloth, but lacked the skill to complete it. Su stepped in. The fabric she produced was so authentic and warm in texture that museum officials took notice. They invited her to help with the restoration of the craft, and what had once been a fading village tradition began to find its way back into the public eye.

Today, from her modest workshop, Su still sits at that same wooden loom. The fabric she weaves carries something no machine can replicate: the warmth of a tradition lived, not merely recorded.