Chongyang cakes from Siyi Pastry Shop. [Photo/WeChat account: ntwgx6]

For Nantong residents, giving Chongyang cake to older family members during the Double Ninth Festival is a long-standing custom. The seasonal treat is also a warm reminder of local food culture. One name often springs to mind: Siyi Pastry Shop, a century-old local brand.

The shop dates back to 1897. Over the decades, it has preserved traditional methods while adapting to changing tastes. Since the 1990s, it has added nut, sesame and salt-and-pepper products, and grown from a single pastry shop into a food company.

Its core craft remains wet milling, fine sieving, high-temperature and high-pressure steaming, and moisture-locking shaping. Top-grade glutinous rice is soaked, ground into slurry, sieved, kneaded with fillings and steamed through dozens of careful steps, giving the cakes a sticky, fluffy, soft and fine texture.

Chongyang cake is available in osmanthus, red bean and kumquat flavors. The shop said it has lowered sweetness and uses trehalose, a pricier ingredient, to suit older customers, while a new mung bean paste version is softer and easier to digest.

A dedicated counter is set up each festival. Near Changqiao, morning steam and aromas remain part of the local breakfast ritual, while visitors also stop by for a taste.