Oil-soaked hairtail. [Photo/WeChat account: ntwgx6]

As the four-and-a-half-month summer fishing moratorium ended in mid-September, Nantong's 255 stow-net vessels set sail, marking the start of an eagerly awaited autumn harvest. For locals, the season's most prized catch is undoubtedly the Lyusi hairtail.

Located at the confluence of the Yangtze River, the East China Sea and the Yellow Sea, Lyusi Port benefits from nutrient-rich waters and ideal temperatures that produce hairtail with a distinctive flavor. Unlike hairtail from other regions, the Lyusi variety is known for its slender shape, translucent silvery scales, rich oil content and firm, tender flesh. As winter approaches, the fish accumulate fat, reaching peak flavor in late autumn and winter.

Local fishermen offer a simple guide to identifying authentic Lyusi hairtail: intact, bright scales; a well-proportioned body; natural oil that keeps the meat moist; and a clean, mild taste requiring minimal seasoning.

Nantong residents prepare hairtail in countless ways — steamed, pan-fried, braised or grilled. In recent years, oil-soaked hairtail has become especially popular. The dish uses hairtail from Lyusi. The fish is seared over low heat, then immersed in seasoned oil for a slow, gentle poach that preserves its natural sweetness. The result is tender, flavorful meat with no fishy odor.

Whether served at a family dinner or a festive gathering, a single Lyusi hairtail embodies the autumn seafood tradition of Nantong.