In Rudong county, Nantong, Jiangsu province, there is a local tradition where people often inquire if seafood is from "Ben Gang" when making a purchase.

This question pertains not only to the geographical origin but also to the timing of the catch. To locals, "Ben Gang" specifically refers to the waters of the Yellow Sea off the coast of Rudong.

Here, freshwater from the Yangtze River meets the waters of the Yellow Sea. With 86 kilometers of coastline and millions of mu (1 mu=0.07 hectares) of mudflats, it has bred more than 1,000 kinds of marine products.

In the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911), Rudong writer Jiang Lingxi referenced "Ben Gang" in his poetry. Two centuries later, locals still use the term.

Locals judge the quality of seafood by sight and touch. For instance, a good horseshoe crab has a green shell, a white belly, and a substantial weight when held. Fresh pomfret can be identified by its small, bright black eyes and intact, silvery body.

A seafood vendor holds up a fresh swimming crab in Rudong. [Photo/WeChat account: rudongfb]

Freshness is a race against time. At Rudong's two major ports, Yangkou and Liubu, boats are unloaded the moment they dock, with refrigerated trucks standing by. Locally caught seafood often reaches markets within hours — sometimes the very morning it is brought ashore.

Rudong people living away from home often deeply miss the local seafood. Some get swimming crabs mailed to them packed in ice. Some, when visiting home for the holidays, eat the local seafood before even meeting up with friends. "Ben Gang" is their simplest praise for the bounty of their home waters.