Freshly-harvested Qingdun hairy crabs. [Photo/WeChat account: hafbwx]

A saying in China goes that crab legs feel itchy when the autumn wind begins to blow, meaning that autumn is the best time to savor hairy crabs.

Located 20 kilometers northwest of Hai'an county in Nantong is a Qingdun Neolithic site that has an abundance of hairy crabs.

Of the more than 6,000 kinds of crabs in the world, Qingdun hairy crabs are recognized as being among the best. These hairy crabs have green shells, white bellies, golden legs, and yellow hair.

In China, lunar September and lunar October are the best times to eat female crabs and male crabs respectively.

Freshly-steamed Qingdun hairy crabs. [Photo/WeChat account: hafbwx]

The best way to prepare bigger hairy crabs is to steam them for 15 minutes using cold water. No seasonings are needed.

Add some sliced ginger and perilla leaves if you wish to get rid of the fishiness.

Warm yellow rice wine and hairy crabs are made for each other. Many locals enjoy eating steamed hairy crab and sipping yellow rice wine after a long day.

One can also fry smaller hairy crabs after cutting them in half and wrapping them with flour paste. This variation is often paired with rice cake and green soy beans.