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Weaving techniques of Nantong homespun cloth

(chinadaily.com.cn) Updated: 2018-08-07

The pattern and style of Nantong homespun cloth have two basic styles that vary between different regions. The Tong Ru style is found in the regions of Tongzhou district and Rugao while the Qi Hai style originates from Qidong, Haimen and Rudong counties.

Most residents of Tongzhou district and Rugao have lived there for generations. They are conservative and traditional, which influences their style of homespun cloth towards simplicity in color and elegance in pattern. Tong Ru style cloth is usually woven with blue and white yarn in traditional patterns of wicker, ants and Osmanthus fragrans, a type of olive tree, presenting a simple beauty.

Qidong, Haimen and Rudong county are coastal areas and the people living there need to fight against the tough weather, which endows them with courage and aggressiveness. Their good qualities are reflected in their homespun cloth. Qi Hai style cloth is famous for its varied and innovative patterns woven by different tools and techniques. Homespun cloth of this style is usually styled with geometrical patterns such as cross and lozenge shapes and decorated with the patterns of Osmanthus fragrans, jujube pit and bamboo joints, which make the cloth simple but varied in pattern. The representative patterns of the Qi Hai style homespun cloth are reed flowers, bamboo joints and pellet flowers.

As a carrier of intangible culture, Nantong homespun cloth reflects the local people’s customs, lifestyles and characters, which is a crystallization of their wisdom and a fruit of their traditional farming culture. Nantong homespun cloth is a representative of China’s 700 years old cotton textile craftsmanship, and has profound meaning for historical research.